Queenstown and around.

We have been a week in Queenstown – the adrenaline capital of NZ.  Not really our scene as the town is characterised by adventure activities – at exorbitant prices- and skiing but some totally awesome mountains around.  The receptionist at the time share is a welsh woman who moved over here 10 years ago to be with son and daughter at the age of 63.  She hasn’t lost her accent.

A highlight was the visit to Arrowtown – a small gold mining town that dates back to the 1860’s.  It had a Chinese community that settled there from Australia in the hope of getting rich.  These immigrants were at first welcomed then were somewhat persecuted later.  They worked hard hoping to send money back to family.  Steve tried his hand at gold panning at the Gold Mining centre; I think he was concerned his pension may not keep said wife in the manner to which she would like to become accustomed!!  He didn’t find any needless to say.  

An old cottage in Arrowtown

The Chinese living quarters in Gold mining days

Steve tries to up the pension!!

We borrowed bikes from the place we are staying and despite dodgy steering on mine managed a 10 mile bike ride around the Kelvin Heights peninsula near us.  Some beautiful houses en route. I WANT ONE!  More gold panning needed.

We went on the tourist trek up on the Gondola for views over Queenstown.  They were bungy jumping off the platform at the top.  I still don’t get that!!  Why would anyone want to do it??  I’m with Nick Easter who chickened out.

On our last day we drove to a remote settlement ,which until 1960’s could only be reached by boat: Glenorchy. It was an absolutely beautiful day and the views of the mountains were spectacular.  Intrepid tourists in victorian times would make the journey up on boats and then on upwards into the mountains on charabancs . Gutsy lot in those days!

Planking NZ style!!

Off to see some glaciers tomorrow.  

Fjiordland

Classic NZ road trip

Classic NZ road trip - well on South island- no traffic great scenery.  This was the route to Te Anau.  An overnight stop to allow us to visit Milford Sound.  This was also awesome.  The trip us was with a guide on the post bus.  He stopped at various locations to tell us about the natural environment.  Such as Manuka bushes only grow in NZ and they make great honey.  He brewed us Manuka tea en route with a mixture of Indian tea and fresh picked Manuka leaves.  Delicious!!

Milford Sound was amazing too.  How Capt Cook managed to find it is a mystery let alone map the fjiord area.  His maps and charts were used up until about 20 years ago.  

This is the road up to the Sound.  More pics to follow on facebook , it's too slow here to load any more!  The next day we did a 7 mile walk which even Steve managed through some LOTR scenery locations to Mananpouri Lake.  This was also beautiful and isolated.  We are now in Queenstown not a blonde or a dwarf in sight but very buzzy; it's a typical ski resort.  The mountain scenery is lovely.  Will blog more next week as I'm doing this in a chocci cafe and it's costing a fortune in hot choc!  No wifi at the apartment this week.  

The match was good we played better making less errors and practising some good backs' moves against pretty clueless opposition. Well attended too.  Sat right by two other Tigers fans who appreciated the Ben/ Manu try from the restart after half time. We drove to Dunedin from Queenstown a round trip of 7 hours for the day!  

Last days in Dunedin

I didn't know that one of the culinary delights of NZ are cheese sandwiches - yes a rolled sandwich which is then toasted!!  Pies and fish and chips are also very popular!  How weird.  They do have very good bacon, fish etc too.  Cakes are good, a sort of slice made of a biscuit type base with all different toppings like ginger/ lemon- Mmmmm!  I'm not finding the beer to my liking too much although a stout from Invercargill was quite good.  Most of the beer is lager style but with less flavour than good Belgian or German beers.  Don't feel too sorry for me though the wine is amazing!!!!
The last few days here have been chilled apart from another less than convincing performance by the England team.  Although to be fair, Georgia played well.  The lesser teams in the RWC seem to be doing well which is good to see.  WE have watched a lot of the other games on TV in the pub. I actually caught sight of Stuart Barnes in the front seat of a car being driven to the stadium on Sunday.  He is commentating for NZ Sky.
Before the match we went for a walk on the beaches of Aramoana - beautiful sand.  It has a sad history for such a beautiful place being the sight of NZ'z worst serial killing.  A local recluse aged 33 killed 13 from his community in 1990 aged from 6-72.

The memorial

The beach at Aramoana

Life in Dunedin

Chicks getting ready to fly

Nesting birds

We have spent quite a chilled week in Dunedin between matches.  Highlights have been seeing Royal Albatross chicks on the Otago peninsula which are about to fledge.  They will be at sea for five-six years before coming back to the same site to breed.  They even sleep at sea.  These guys weigh 12Kg and as an adult have a wing span of 3 metres.  We were treated to how far they can project their poo which was about a metre!!  Mac would have been proud!

Just by the colony we saw some fur seals and a superb colony of Stewart Island Shags nesting on the cliff.

Dunedin and all of the Southland area has a strong scottish link.  Many people have descended from settlers who arrived in the 1840's from Scotland.  There is even a statue of Robbie Burns in the main street.  People seem to have retained that pioneer spirit.  It reminds me very much of Canada where people often seem to have a similar psyche.  Life is about survival rather than status.  Many drive old cars, people don't appear to be too worried about a car defining them in life as in the UK. Refreshing. We went to a celtic folk club last week and saw an amazing performer: Anna Rugis who sings "Hebridean Mouth Music"  unaccompanied except for her clapping and slapping her hands on her legs.  Amazing.

Yesterday we went to the Catlins a wild and picturesque piece of coast.  Home to only about 4000 people.  We were lucky enough to see some yellow eyed penguins on a wild beach just in from fishing all day at sea.  These are endangered with only 4000 left and they only live in certain parts of NZ. Steve got a video of them - well he tried.

Lucky England

The pre match atmosphere in Dunedin was electric with loads of folk choosing to support one of the teams.  Most of the uni students seemed to be supporting Argentina for some strange reason.   We waved our Tigers flag as the England team bus arrived.  I'm sure one of them smiled!!  OK so we were less than convincing and Jonny missing 5 penalties was excruciating to watch.  Hey but his thighs still looked tanned and good ( reporting back for Alicia!).  Saint Ben saved the day however.  It can only get better.

NZ at last!

Finally made it to NZ - Christchurch after a brief stop over in Sydney airport.  lots of fellow rugby supporters on the plane - things are hotting up!!  When picking up the hire car the man on the desk was keen to tell us how he loved Coronation Street!!  Apparently it's hugely popular here but about two years behind.  I had to admit to never having watched it!  Earthquake damage around Christchurch was evident on many homes.  We were staying in Lyttleton which was quite badly affected.  Our hosts for the night were a couple we got to know over the internet; the original destination for games was Christchurch until the earthquake and we were going to rent a cottage from them.  They kindly offered us a night's stay before driving the 5 hours to Dunedin.   They had the most amazing house with views across the bay to the hills.  Stunning!
We are now in Dunedin and have picked up the match tickets.  I'm so excited I had to use inhalers this morning!!  Very nervous for England.  The opening ceremony in Auckland was brilliant although there were some probs with the trains and some fans didn't get there at all.  Can't help thinking that wouldn't have happened at Twickenham which have developed a very good transport system.  I just hope they get it right before the final.  We are staying in a little garden flat in a house owned by two nurses who have 4 children.  She brought us cakes and beer when we arrived - really nice.  All kiwis have been friendly and helpful.  the farmers market in Dunedin provided fresh fish for lunch.  Lots of Argentine support here too  but out numbered by the English.  Come on England!!!

Singapore x 2

Well we had to do Raffles and I had to have a SIngapore sling despite Steve nearly having heart failure at the price biut it was nice.  They provide a bowl of peanuts and expect you to throw the shells on the floor- rather against my better nature.
A visit to Changi chapel and prison where British service men and their families amongst others were interred during the occupation of SG by the japanese in WW2.  Very moving.
SG is a weird mix of corporate might and those who support them.  THis at first seemed odd and mildly disconcerting but seems to work.  The service providers seem genuinely pleased to do their jobs well.  The city is clean with no litter or graffitti so they must be doing something right.  Our taxi driver claimed there was no corruption.  We noted no loudness or displays of macho culture everyone seemed calmly going about their business.  The ambience is civilised everywhere with random people offering help.  People of all walks of life seem genuinely pleased at what they have achieved in 50 years sine WW2.  Maybe we could learn a thing or two about providing employment and caring for our public environment.

Singapore

We emerged from the airport to searing humidity.  Very like Florida but worse for those of you who have been.  Our taxi driver told us some interesting facts about Singapore which I hadn't known.  2%, only 2% income tax.  All males between the ages of 18-20 have to complete 2 years conscription.  Benefits are only paid to the handicapped and and elderly.  The low crime rate is a feature and it certainly feels safe walking around at night.  The downside - well for some!!- no drugs on pain of the death penalty for possession.  I was a bit worried about my thyroxine tabs in my bag in case in got searched!!  Chewing gum is also banned with a hefty fine for those infringing.  Not sure how american visitors cope with that one!!
Hotel was great with a welcome swimming pool.  On Sunday we went to chinatown in search of some good street food and found it fried fish in sweet and sour sauce.  Everywhere as very festive as it's a mid autumn festival.  We visited the botanical gardens which had some beautiful orchids and provided a peaceful setting away from the bustle of the city.

Setting Off

Our trip began with a first - well nearly- first trip on a National Express coach since being a student.  Not bad except bizarrely the first stop was Dudley bus station!!  Followed by Digbeth.  The journey wasn't too bad with the driver rather unusually playing Classic FM.
Breakast in the airport lounge followed a night in the hotel near Heathrow with great views of the undercarriages of planes setting off right over the terrace where we were sitting.  It still amazes me that they get off the ground.
We say talking to a very nice welsh couple who were on our flight in the lounge. He had downed two beers and two glasses of red wine - all free- before we set off to board and it was only 11:20!  I felt like a lightweight drinking my fruit juice and coffee.
The aeroplane was an A380 airbus and enormous monster of a thing with two decks.  As usual we were in economy but there was a little leg rest which was a plus.  Steve say next to a hunky Aussie ( I think) young male who didn't speak the entire 13 hour flight.  I think Steve put him off with his dad jokes about having a weak bladder and having to climb over him to get to the loo every half an hour!!  Three films later - one very moving - "Oranges and Sunshine" about the emigration - forced- of children in the 60's-80's of children to Australia many of whom were told their parents were dead ( they weren't) and who were treated appallingly often by children's homes in Aus - often christian run ones.